Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report, October 2006
The Heritage House

Only a small number of seaside hotels in the world offer truly magical and memorable coastal vistas. Hotel San Pietro on Italy's Amalfi Coast, Splendido in Portofino and Château Eza on the Côte d'Azur come instantly to mind. The Heritage House also belongs to that exclusive group of wondrously sited properties.

Located five miles south of Mendocino, the romantic sanctuary crowns a stunningly scenic bluff overlooking a rugged coastline and distinctive rock formations pounded by wild Pacific waves. The hideaway began life as a humble 19th-Century wilderness homestead, the protected cove and secret caves indenting the cliff subsequently being used by rumrunners during Prohibition.

In 1949, the Dennen family purchased the abandoned farm and gradually converted it into an idyllic country inn for escapists. Rustic cottage-like accommodations were added throughout the grounds, along with colorful gardens that attract all manner of hummingbirds. The retreat gained its celebrity status in 1978, when it was chosen as the site for the classic film Same Time, Next Year, starring Alan Alda and Ellen Burstyn. Indeed, the cliffside bungalow built for the film still remains the premier duplex lodging, one unit bearing the name "Same Time" and the other "Next Year", though both are being combined into one luxurious suite this coming winter.

Eight years ago, the Dennens sold The Heritage House and it went into a minor decline. In September 2005, however, the inn was acquired by a visionary new owner, and much like San Ysidro Ranch (see Page 2), the property is undergoing a long-overdue major restoration that maintains the evocative character of the main house and cottages, while enhancing the interiors with amenities appreciated by today's discriminating travelers.

The original portion of the ivy-cloaked clapboard farmhouse shelters a cozy reception lounge, warmed by a crackling fireplace, comfy sofas and nostalgic photos. Just beyond lies an expanded indoor/outdoor restaurant affording sublime views of the sea, the kitchen now overseen by talented new Chef Nancy Kinchela, whose menu evolves with the seasons. Daily seafood selections are based on the fresh catch of the day, and much of the produce is grown locally.

During our stay, we enjoyed house-cured Pacific salmon and a flavorful seafood chowder as appetizers, followed by delicious organic lamb shoulder with rosemary jus and Niman Ranch tenderloin "Rossini" served with potato galette, duxelles and seared foie gras. The well-balanced wine list includes many fine Sonoma, Anderson Valley and Napa Valley vintages. For aperitifs or nightcaps, drop by the "Old Timer's Room," which features a good selection of single malt scotch whiskeys.

Four dozen oceanview accommodations nestle amid the expansive landscape in low-profile annexes and individual cottages. By next spring, most will have been fully renovated and upgraded with picturesque furnished decks, woodburning fireplaces, snazzy modern baths, feather beds, 32-inch flat-screen LCD TVs, iPods, Bose stereo systems, phones, high-speed Internet access, Lavazza coffeemakers, custom wine cooler/minibars stocked with a dozen regional vintages, and more.

The extremely popular "Retreat Suites" with separate living rooms offer the utmost comfort, privacy and unhindered panoramas and should be booked well in advance. Of particular note are soon-to-be-expanded "Same Time, Next Year," "Meadows," "Vistas," "Romeo & Juliet" and "Pullen's Landing," which debut in the spring of 2007. We also like the newly restored, upper-floor "Carousel" Haven Suites (actually junior suites) and the spiffy new "Greenwood" and "La Maison" Seascape Suites (smaller studio rooms). Due to all the upcoming changes (including the addition of spa rooms), we suggest you contact the cordial and helpful reservations desk to reserve the lodging that most perfectly suits your tastes.

This is an enchanting, get-away-from-it-all haven that has now come of age. Very special, Seascape Suite for one or two, $500-$550, breakfast included, Mar 1-Nov 30, 2007; Haven Suite, $600-$650; Retreat Suite, $800-$1000. Rates for existing rooms through the remainder of 2006 are significantly less. Tel. (800) 235-5885 or (707) 937-5885. Email: info@heritagehouseinn.com

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